How to Recognize Sterling vs Silver-Plated Items
Apr 13, 2023
{
"Title": "How to Recognize Sterling vs Silver-Plated Items: A Step-by-Step Guide",
"Date": "04/13/23",
"Content": "
Practical Guide for Identifying Silver Items
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If you have old silver jewelry, coins, or flatware and are wondering whether they are made of sterling silver or just silver-plated, you are not alone. Many people inherit these items or simply come across them over time and want to know if they have real value. This guide will walk you through simple and reliable ways to recognize sterling silver versus silver-plated items, prepare them properly for valuation, and keep good records before selling or recycling them.
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Understanding Sterling Silver vs Silver-Plated
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Sterling silver is a metal alloy consisting of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals (often copper). This is why you’ll often see the hallmark “925” stamped on genuine sterling pieces. In contrast, silver-plated items are made from a base metal (like brass, copper, or steel) with just a very thin outer coating of silver. While they may look shiny and attractive, the melt value of silver-plated items is minimal since the silver layer is so thin.
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Step 1: Look for Hallmarks and Stamps
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Most sterling silver is stamped with international marks such as:
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925 – The most common mark, indicating 92.5% pure silver.
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Sterling – Often found on flatware or jewelry made for the U.S. market.
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800 / 900 – Older European silver alloys, less pure than sterling.
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Hallmarks – Country-specific marks (such as a lion passant in England) that guarantee purity.
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Silver-plated items may carry the following labels:
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EP or EPNS – Electroplated Nickel Silver.
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Silverplate – Direct designation of plating.
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Community Plate – Common trade mark for silver-plated flatware.
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Step 2: Use the Magnet Test
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Silver is not magnetic. If your piece sticks strongly to a magnet, it is not sterling silver. However, be careful: some base metals used in silver-plating are also non-magnetic, so this test only rules out obvious fakes but does not confirm purity.
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Step 3: Check Weight and Feel
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Sterling silver tends to be heavier than silver-plated items because it is solid metal. Silver-plated pieces, especially hollowware or flatware, may feel lighter or more tinny. Use a small pocket scale to weigh jewelry or coins in grams. If you keep a record of weights along with hallmarks, it will make it much easier to calculate melt value later. For official weight guidance, see NIST resources on weights and measures.
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Step 4: Simple Testing Methods
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There are different methods experts use to test silver:
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Acid test – A small scratch is made on the surface and a drop of testing solution is applied. Sterling reacts differently than plated items.
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Electronic tester – Non-invasive testers are also available at some shops and refineries.
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Professional testing – Mail-in kits from buyers like International Gold & Silver will often include a testing process with clear results.
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If you want to test at home, an inexpensive acid test kit can be used, but follow all safety precautions and only test in an inconspicuous area.
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Step 5: Organize and Record Your Findings
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Keeping track of stamps, weights, and test results ensures nothing gets lost or mixed up. A simple way is to create a spreadsheet or use an organizational tool like GavelBase to log your notes and photos. Include details such as the piece type, hallmark, and weight in grams. This record-keeping will help if you choose to sell or simply document your collection for insurance.
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Step 6: Storing and Preparing Before Mailing
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If you decide to sell sterling silver items by mail, such as through a refinery or trusted buyer, good packing matters:
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Remove obvious non-metal parts like wooden handles or plastic if safe to do so.
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Group small pieces (like broken jewelry) into a labeled pouch or envelope so nothing gets lost.
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Wrap larger flatware or coins in soft cloth or bubble wrap.
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Use a sturdy box or mailer.
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Ship by a tracked and insured carrier—see USPS insurance guidelines for details on coverage.
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Step 7: Understand Value and Payouts
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Sterling silver is valued based on its melt value (the weight multiplied by the current silver price and purity percentage). However, offers can vary depending on factors like stones, mixed materials, and small scrap weight. Silver-plated items have negligible melt value, but sometimes they may carry collectible or decorative value in certain markets.
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Step 8: Payment Options
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When you send silver items to a buyer, you will likely be offered several payment methods. Common options include:
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Payment Method | Pros | Cons |
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PayPal | Fast, widely accepted | May have small fees |
Venmo / Cash App | Instant, mobile-friendly | Transfer limits may apply |
Zelle | Bank-to-bank, instant | Must be enrolled, daily limits |
ACH Direct Deposit | Secure, goes directly into bank | Takes 1–3 days |
Check | Paper trail, easy for records | Slower, must be cashed or deposited |
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Quick Checklist
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✔ Look for hallmarks (925, Sterling, EP, Silverplate).
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✔ Test with a magnet to rule out obvious fakes.
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✔ Weigh items in grams and record results.
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✔ Perform or request an acid/electronic test.
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✔ Store items safely in labeled pouches or bags.
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✔ Use insured and tracked shipping if mailing.
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✔ Review available payment methods before choosing.
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FAQs
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How can I tell if something is sterling silver without a stamp?
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If there’s no visible stamp, you can use a combination of weight, magnet testing, and acid testing. Many antique or handmade items may not be stamped but still be sterling.
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Are coins always sterling silver?
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No. Coinage has varied by country and year. U.S. coins, for example, contained 90% silver until 1964. For composition details, see the U.S. Mint coin specifications.
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What about jewelry marked 925 Italy or Mexico?
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These are simply marks that indicate the purity (925) and country of origin. They typically mean genuine sterling.
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Is it worth selling silver-plated items?
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